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Custom Designing Your Jewelry using 3D-CAD Technology

Posted on January 19th, 2010 in Jewelry by jani-online-store-online-shopping-guide

Custom Designing Your Jewelry using 3D-CAD Technology
 
For years custom designed jewelry has been created using old world techniques dating as far back as the 1800’s. Until recently, almost all-custom designed jewelry was created using these methods. The introduction of Computer Aided Design (CAD) and Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) has changed all that and in it’s wake ushered in a whole new universe of possibilities. Designs that were never thought possible can be made to the highest quality standards.

How is Custom Designed Jewelry Made?

Before learning about the benefits of 3D-CAD you’ll need to know more about the custom jewelry design process. Most jewelry is made using a method called lost wax casting. A skilled artisan/jeweler hand carves a jewelry prototype out of jewelers wax using small scalpels and knives. This wax prototype also known as a “model” is placed in a flask and plaster called “investment” is poured all around the model. Once the investment hardens an exact impression of the model is formed inside of the flask. The wax model is burned out of the flask leaving a cavity of the jewelry design.

Next molten metal is injected in the flask mold using vacuum or centrifugal casting. When the metal cools and hardens the investment is broken away revealing the un-finished jewelry casting. This casting is filed, polished and prepped for assembly, which may include setting the gemstones or welding other precious metal parts to the casting.

The process of hand carving the wax prototype has always been the accepted process for creating custom jewelry. The problem with this process is that the human hand can’t be as precise as a computer-aided machine when carving the model. Precision equates to more design possibilities and much higher quality jewelry production. In the end you’ll have a product that looks crisper and won’t be prone to stone loss or breakage.

What is Computer Aided Design?

Computer Aided Design is a sophisticated modeling process using advanced software to plot coordinates for mechanical drawings. These drawings can be exported to various types of prototyping machines called CNC mills or growing machines. CNC mills cut-away material from a block of wax to make the jewelry model. The growing machines layer material from side to side much like a printer
to build the model, samples of this process can be viewed at www.rokstok.com .The precision of these models exceeds what any human could do while hand carving the jewelry model. Design possibilities become limitless because the 3D-CAD software enables the designer to create parts and design elements that aren’t possible using outmoded tools and methods.

Another benefit of 3D-CAD jewelry design is the ability to see a computer rendering before the final completion of the jewelry. In old methods the jeweler would create crude counter sketches of your concept and the rest would be left to your imagination. Now the designs that the jeweler creates in 3D-CAD can be rendered to photo-realistic images for you to view before making your final decisions.

Choosing a Jeweler for Custom Jewelry Design

Like any other occupation or trade there are good jewelry craftsmen and there are bad ones. It is important to pre-screen your jeweler to determine if he/she is skilled at making custom designed jewelry. Ask to see their portfolio and examine their designs to determine if the flair they have for jewelry design matches your style requirements. Also, pay close attention to their communication and interpretation skills because much can get lost in the translation of your ideas if you’re not careful. Once the jewelry is made its too late to make changes and the typical jeweler will not re-make it again without added fees.

At this point higher qualified and better skilled custom jewelry designers have moved to using 3D-CAD to create their designs. If you feel 2 jewelers are equally matched in aptitude and skills then you should choose the one that is using 3D-CAD design. You’ll pay a little more to have your jewelry created in 3D-CAD but the final results will be amazing. The jewelry will look 1000% better than if it were hand carved and it will last much longer because of the precision of the jewelry model.

Andy Moquin President Andrews Jewelers Inc. 716-630-7091

Andy Moquin has spent 20 years in the jewelry business buying and selling over $20,000,000 in diamonds, engagement rings and custom designed jewelry. He as traveled to Belgium and Israel to work with international diamond dealers and works as an advisor for DBC Diamonds an international consortium of diamond dealers. His experience in the jewelry business has become invaluable to consumers and business owners. He can be contacted at 716-630-7091, andrew@rokstok.com, www.rokstok.com ,

Tag: custom jewelry design, custom jewelry designers, 3D-CAD jewelry design, custom engagement rings

Custom Designing Your Jewelry using 3D-CAD Technology by ANDY MOQUIN

Appraising and Insuring Your Jewelry

Posted on January 19th, 2010 in Jewelry by jani-online-store-online-shopping-guide

Appraising and Insuring Your Jewelry
 
I’ve seen it time and time again. Customers come to have estimates or appraisals done for their lost, stolen, or damaged jewelry. They ask if the appraisal can be done without seeing the jewelry or if it can be done based on their recollection of what it used to look like. Unfortunately insurance companies will not accept this form of evaluation or appraisal, and certainly not after the fact. In the following article I will explain what to do in order to properly appraise and insure your jewelry.

Creditable Appraisals

Insurance companies require that your jewelry policy be based on official and creditable appraisals done by a reputable jeweler. Jewelers that have studied or have been train by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will provide the most acceptable appraisals. Being trained by GIA ensures a conservative grading analysis and a correct evaluation of the jewelry’s worth. Most insurance companies
do not require that you have your jewelry appraised by GIA graduates however; it’s always better to have one done by someone with these credentials.

Your appraisal should include the information regarding the precious metal content including it’s weight, karat purity, and color. The diamonds and gemstones should be described in terms of shape, carat weight, color, clarity, and cut grade. If the diamonds are pre-certified by a grading laboratory then you should give a copy of the certification to the appraiser and ask them to list this information on the appraisal. If possible have the appraiser photograph the items and attach this photograph to the appraisal when submitting to the insurance company. Always keep a copy in a safe deposit box or in a fire proof safe.

Jewelry appraisals should be reassessed every 7-10 years to determine if the value of the items has appreciated. Jewelry is a commodity and like all commodities they are subject to fluctuations in value. In recent years the value of certain diamonds have actually doubled in price because of shortages in the marketplace for high demand shapes and sizes. A loss after such a gain in value without proper reassessments will result in gaps in your jewelry coverage when trying to replace the item.

Choosing the Proper Insurance Coverage

The biggest mistake consumers’ make is assuming that their homeowners insurance will cover them in the event of a loss. This could be further from the truth. The typical home insurance only allows $1500 – $5000 for personal articles and with that is a deductible of $500 – $1500. Along with that is the fact that some homeowners’ insurance policies do not allow for loss of the item, damage, or diamond loss from the setting.

The best way to insure your jewelry is to get a personal articles policy written by your agent. This policy should include loss of the item, theft of item, damage, and loss of gemstones & diamonds. Ask your insurance agent to quote the policy with no deductible and with the above coverage. The going rate for jewelry insurance is $1.50 – $1.85 per hundred and if you’re quote higher then your probably paying too much. To calculate the annual premium take the appraised value of the jewelry and multiply is by the rate and then divide it by 100. Example (appraised value $10,000 X $1.50 = $15,000 Divide by 100 = $150 per year).

Some local insurance agents aren’t familiar with jewelry insurance policies and you may feel like you’re not getting the proper assistance. There are a couple of jewelry insurance companies that provide superior service and if your agent fails to give you proper assistance I recommend you give them a call. The two I like most are CHUBB Insurance and Jewelers Mutual. These companies specialize in personal articles policies and generally have the lowest rates with the best coverage. I can discuss these companies with your further at www.andrewsjewelers.com

Insurance is one of those things that you have to think about until you really need it. I will say though that a jewelry insurance policy makes a lot of sense. Let say you have a wedding set worth $5000 that you wear every day. How often do walk around with $5000 cash in your pocket? Almost never right? Well is some cases you walk around with the jewelry equivalent all the time. If you have valuable jewelry that you wear everyday then you are certainly increasing your chances of having an unfortunate loss. Jewelry valued at $5000 can cost as little as $75 per year to insure. It’s worth every penny to give you the peace of mind to wear it with pride and without worry.

Andy Moquin President Andrews Jewelers Inc. 716-630-7091

Andy Moquin has spent 20 years in the jewelry business buying and selling over $20,000,000 in diamonds, engagement rings and custom designed jewelry. He as traveled to Belgium and Israel to work with international diamond dealers and works as an advisor for DBC Diamonds an international consortium of diamond dealers. His experience in the jewelry business has become invaluable to consumers and business owners. He can be contacted at 716-630-7091, www.andrewsjewelers.com  www.custom jewelry design

Tag: diamonds, jewelry appraisals, gia certification, jewelry insurance, jewelry homeowners insurance.

Appraising and Insuring Your Jewelry by ANDY MOQUIN

Gems – Information, History and Folklore – Page 1

Posted on January 15th, 2010 in Jewelry by jani-online-store-online-shopping-guide

Gems – Information, History and Folklore – Page 1
 
Throughout the centuries jewelry has been created and worn by people of different cultures. Every culture had it gemstones that they valued and they attributed a special meaning to each. Today the list of precious and semi-precious gemstones is very large and each one has a history and folklore associated with it. The Quality Jewelry Directory has created a list of the most popular gemstones and gives a brief outline of each.

Alexandrite: One of the most valued and sought after gemstones is Alexandrite. Born in metamorphic conditions that bring together specific chemical elements to produce the mineral chrysoberyl, the gemstone has been valued by jewelers throughout the ages for its unique ability to change color from green to shades of red or very soft purple when exposed to daylight and incandescent light. Russia is the primary source for most gem quality alexandrite and was named after the Russian Tsar Alexander II. With a rich folklore history, alexandrite was thought to impart wisdom, creativity and to strengthen a individuals insight. Listed on the Mohs Scale of Hardness at 8.5, it is a perfect gemstone to design into high quality jewelry.

Ruby: Ruby is a beautiful gemstone that is part of the mineral family corundum. Corundum is found within crystals of metamorphic rock and is considered to be the second hardest mineral next to diamonds. Corundums come in different varieties and can be considered a sapphire in different colors. Some of the best rubies are in true red and come from Burma. They can also be found in other areas throughout the world, such as Australia, Kenya, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and the United States. With its well known sturdiness, it makes a perfect gemstone for jewelry. Often set with sapphires and diamonds, it is a perfect stone to pair up. The ruby was thought to have mystical powers and was often worn as a Talisman to ward off great evil. The ruby’s color was often associated with blood and was thought to have the ability to stop bleeding and to heal ailments associated with it.

Sapphires: Sapphires belong to the mineral family of corundum and are found in weathered alluvial deposits from pyroclastic flows. Most sapphires are blue stones which range from slight blue to a deep indigo coloration. The most valued of the sapphires are ones that have the medium blue coloration and these are referred to “cornflower blue”. Sapphires come in many colors and these are often called “fancy sapphires”. Only in the case of red, are corundums called rubies. Sapphires are found throughout the world but primarily in Australia, United States. Sri Lanka, Thailand, Burma, Kampuchea, Kenya and Tanzania. The name “sapphire” comes from multiple sources. In Persian, it is “safir” and was associated with Saturn. In Latin, “sappheiros” for the island where sapphires were mined. Ancient folklore is rich with stories related to sapphires. Seen as a stone that changes its hue when the wearer was engaged in impure behavior, it was given to the wearer to help impart fidelity. Also thought to bring inner peace to the soul and spiritual enlightenment.

Amethyst: Amethyst is a purple colored gemstone that is from the mineral “quartz” and derives it beautiful purple color from the iron impurities within the crystal. Throughout the world, amethyst is primarily found in Mexico, Brazil, Canada, Uruquay, Madagascar and Australia. Amethysts occur as long prismatic crystals that form six-sided pyramids end to end and grow in druzes within crystalline crusts or in sandstone formations. Amethysts are believed to bring the power of peace and calm and are often used in meditation. Due to its rich color and calming effects it is used to relieve stress from every day work and to relieve headaches due to tension or migraine headaches. Amethyst is often seen to encourage deeper understanding, encourage love and awareness. Amethyst was often worn to bed to produce and encourage peace and beautiful dreams. Amethysts are adorned in some of the richest displays of jewelry such as the British Crown Jewels. Catherine the Great was very fond of amethyst as were the Egyptians.

Pearl: Pearl is the modern birthstone for the month of June. The beautiful pearl is the only gem that is created from a living organism, the oyster. The process of pearl formation is actually a reaction to an irritant within the oyster itself. This irritation causes a material called nacre to envelope the irritant and over time creates a beautiful pearl. Pearls come in different varieties such as cultured pearls, freshwater pearls, tahitian pearls, black pearls. Other varieties of pearls are barogues which display an irregular appearance and Mabe pearls that are cultivated blister pearls. The name “pearl”, comes from the latin word, “perula” or small pear. The Chinese were the first to cultivate pearls in saltwater, but over the years they were cultivated in saltwater and freshwater alike. Today, some of the finest cultivated pearls come from Japan. Pearls are associated with purity, wisdom through experience and perfection.

Emeralds: Emeralds are actually the green version of the mineral beryl. This type of beryl contains small amounts of chromium and iron which give them their unique color. Emeralds are commonly found in sedimentary rock that has undergone changes in temperature and pressure. Emeralds can be found in the Russian Federation, United States, Pakistan, Norway, India, Malagasy, and Australia. Some of the best emeralds are found Colombia and these crystals exhibit the best quality for their size. The name emerald comes from the Greek term “smaragdos”, which loosely translates to “green gemstone”. The quality in the emerald is determined by it’s clarity and it’s deep grass green coloration which exhibits a slight hint of blue. Emeralds have a deep history and folklore. The history of emeralds can be traced to the ancient Babylonians and the Egyptians where tools have been found in ancient emerald mines where the Queen Cleopatra’s emeralds originated. The Incas also mined emeralds and the largest and highest quality stones were once worn by nobility. Unfortunately, many emeralds were lost to time, due to invasions, greed or through the inclusion of these gems in private collections.

Diamonds: Diamonds are the hardest known natural material and have other qualities that make the diamond a true king of gems. Based upon the element “carbon”, diamonds are actually similar to graphite, but like carbon they have a unique crystalline composition. The dense atomic structure of diamonds makes them extremely valuable in jewelry but also in modern day industrial applications. Diamonds are formed deep underground where pressure and temperature are critical for their formation. In ancient times, India was the only known source of diamonds, until after the 1800 century, deposits were discovered all over the world. Diamonds come from a variety of sources but the primary deposits are from large openings in the Earth called volcanic pipes. These are often called kimberlite pipes. The vast majority of all diamonds originate in Africa but other significant finds have been discovered in Russia and in the northwestern territories of Canada.

Turquoise: One gemstone that is very popular is turquoise. Turquoise is a copper aluminum phosphate mineral that is found in locations that have high concentrations of copper. Turquoise is created from a variety of natural process and is found in areas that are arid in climate. These climate conditions are important in weathering and oxidation of copper deposits and producing the conditions that support the creation of turquoise. Turquoise can also be created from hydrothermal actions, leaching and precipitation of surrounding copper deposits to form turquoise. Turquoise comes in variety of shades such as blue-green, and green with flecks of gray with traces of iron and chrome. The best quality turquoise is “sky blue” or often called “robin egg” blue. Turquoise is found throughout the world, but comes primarily from the United States, Iran, Afghanistan, China and Mexico.

Topaz: Topaz is a silicate mineral that has been used as a gemstone for centuries. Topaz is considered the hardest of silicate minerals but has interesting properties that make it similar to diamonds in its ability to be cleaved into smaller increments. Unlike diamonds, the crystals of topaz can come in very large sizes. Topaz is usually found in pegmatities, quartz veins and inside of granites and rhyolites. Topaz in its true form is clear, but can come in a large assortment of colors due to various impurities within the crystal lattice. These colors can range from red, green, orange, brown and yellow. Topaz in its natural state forms short or long multi-faceted crystals and is prized as a mineral specimen in its natural state. Topaz is located throughout the world but is primarily found in Russia, Australia, Africa, Mexico, Brazil and Pakistan and some of the best quality and prized topaz deposits are found in Brazil. Certain regions of the United States have topaz deposits, most notably in San Diego County and the Thomas Mountain Range in Utah which is renowned for its beautiful blue topaz.

If you are shopping for jewelry look to the Quality Jewelry Directory to help you find what you desire.

Additional information can be found in other areas of our website: Gemstones, Jewelry Cleaning, Birthstone information and Anniversary Stones

We are always looking for websites that wish to be listed in our directory, so feel free to add your website by selecting your “jewelry category” and clicking “suggest link”

The following list is small breakdown of each gemstones history and folklore. The list is not intended to be the end all of gemstone information and should not be looked upon as such. Each gemstone has it’s own mineral data, history and folklore and all data cannot be written about each one. It is recommended to seek other websites for deeper knowledge on each.

Tag:  jewelry, gems, gemstones, precious gems, precious gemstones, semi-precious, fine jewelry, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, amethyst, pearls, emeralds, diamonds

Gems – Information, History and Folklore – Page 1 by NORMAN MILLER

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